Creaking from SRM DAce powermeter?

Discussion:

Geoff

2007-04-22 16:02:15 UTC

Anyone ever experience any creaking from their DA SRM? I have had an
annoying creak for the last few months and I am sure it is coming from
the bb area. I have tried every trick I know of, I have tried three
different bottom brackets, teflon tape on the bb threads, vibra-tite
on the bb threads and no relief. I have checked the chainring bolts
and the pedal threads, trying both loctite and plenty of grease. The
only thing I can think of is some play between the SRM spider and the
DA crank arm it is bolted to. Would I do any harm if I pulled off the
SRM and simply tightened the torx headed bolts a bit? Will that throw
off the calibration of the slope?

Any other ideas out there?

Thanks,
Geoff

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T***@aol.com

2007-04-22 16:04:44 UTC

Permalink

check the pedal and cleat?

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Geoff

2007-04-22 17:31:52 UTC

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Yep. I have tried two sets of pedals, two pairs of shoes with
different cleats. I have tried it all!! It's the only thing I am
left with. The one thing I haven't switched out is the crankset
itself. I am going to try and borrow a friend's crank for an hour or
so and swap them and see how things sound. That will definitely solve
the question I would imagine.

Post by T***@aol.com
check the pedal and cleat?
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Morgan Fletcher

2007-04-23 01:46:52 UTC

Permalink

I recently had extreme creaking on a bike with external bearings, and
the drive-side bearing had loosened. Removing the crank, bearings,
re-greasing and re-torquing the bearings cups got rid of the noise.

Morgan

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Dino Alleger

2007-04-23 05:23:14 UTC

Permalink

maybe the bottom bracket shell needs to be faced. make sure this is okay
with the frame manufacturer.

dino

Subject: [Wattage] Re: Creaking from SRM DAce powermeter?
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2007 18:46:52 -0700
I recently had extreme creaking on a bike with external bearings, and
the drive-side bearing had loosened. Removing the crank, bearings,
re-greasing and re-torquing the bearings cups got rid of the noise.
Morgan

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Geoff

2007-04-24 13:36:18 UTC

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Well, I got a hold of a regular DA crank and swapped out the arm. I
kept everything else the same - same LH arm, same axle cap, same pedal
- and the creak is GONE!! Hmmmm. I might have to send this pm to
Colorado for a checkup. I don't want to start screwing with it myself
and damage it.

One other thing I noticed is that the location of the chainrings is
different on the SRM DA. After I swapped to the regular DA crank, the
rings were further inboard than they were. The chain started rubbing
the fr derr when in the 39 and the second largest cassette cog! Never
realised that. I guess they must need the clearance around the bb cup
for the electronics so they bias the spider outwards a tad.

Anyone else noticed this? I got my SRM DA as soon as they were
available in August 04 so they may have changed the setup somewhat in
the meantime. Who knows?

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Geoff

2007-05-03 16:45:44 UTC

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Update:

I just got a hold of some Torx sockets and took the crank arm off the
srm spider and things were dry on the interface between the two. I
slapped a goodly amount of grease in there and put them back together
- 10nm for the three T-30 bolts and 6nm for the single T-20 bolt.

One other thing that I learned in my investigations: SRM in Colorado
will sell the machined DA crank arms to match up to the DA SRM
spider. I always thought you were locked into to what you got. That
means that anyone with a DA SRM that wants to play around with crank
length can do so, as easily as with the standard SRM powermeters.

Geoff

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brinecycling

2007-05-03 21:32:17 UTC

Permalink

I am not sure which srm you are using but if its not the da 10 model
but the powermeter is still cracking ,then you need to teflon tape the
bottom bracket .Thats what fixed my cracking when i was having the
problem .If your using the da-10 model ,then i would suggest still
teflon taping where it attaches to the non drive side of the crank.

Post by Geoff
I just got a hold of some Torx sockets and took the crank arm off the
srm spider and things were dry on the interface between the two. I
slapped a goodly amount of grease in there and put them back together
- 10nm for the three T-30 bolts and 6nm for the single T-20 bolt.
One other thing that I learned in my investigations: SRM in Colorado
will sell the machined DA crank arms to match up to the DA SRM
spider. I always thought you were locked into to what you got. That
means that anyone with a DA SRM that wants to play around with crank
length can do so, as easily as with the standard SRM powermeters.
Geoff

11.4

2007-04-22 18:19:03 UTC

Permalink

I wouldn't touch the torx bolts. A slight bit of overtightening and
you either crack the SRM housing or strip the metal. SRM is very
careful about warning about the dangers of doing this. It's also not
likely where your creaking is coming from.

There's very little creaking reported in DA SRMs (in fact, I've never
heard of a case). But you can have a creaking water bottle cage (or a
rivnut under a bottle cage) or a creak in your seat post clamp, and
the sound carries down to your bottom bracket. I'd encourage you to
search more widely for the source of your creak. You won't get any
instant answer here because every creak is different -- you just need
to find what it is that creaks for you. Also, you haven't said you've
replaced both pedals and shoes (both are frequent sources of creaks).

Post by Geoff
Anyone ever experience any creaking from their DA SRM? I have had an
annoying creak for the last few months and I am sure it is coming from
the bb area. I have tried every trick I know of, I have tried three
different bottom brackets, teflon tape on the bb threads, vibra-tite
on the bb threads and no relief. I have checked the chainring bolts
and the pedal threads, trying both loctite and plenty of grease. The
only thing I can think of is some play between the SRM spider and the
DA crank arm it is bolted to. Would I do any harm if I pulled off the
SRM and simply tightened the torx headed bolts a bit? Will that throw
off the calibration of the slope?
Any other ideas out there?
Thanks,
Geoff

decade

2007-05-04 01:47:03 UTC

Permalink

I had to send my SRM back to Germany last year so to reduce freight
costs I took the crank arm off.
When it came back I despite being gentle managed to tear the head off
the T-20 bolt.
Luckily I have access to a great machinist that managed to fix it.
So be careful

Post by 11.4
I wouldn't touch the torx bolts. A slight bit of overtightening and
you either crack the SRM housing or strip the metal. SRM is very
careful about warning about the dangers of doing this. It's also not
likely where your creaking is coming from.
There's very little creaking reported in DA SRMs (in fact, I've never
heard of a case). But you can have a creaking water bottle cage (or a
rivnut under a bottle cage) or a creak in your seat post clamp, and
the sound carries down to your bottom bracket. I'd encourage you to
search more widely for the source of your creak. You won't get any
instant answer here because every creak is different -- you just need
to find what it is that creaks for you. Also, you haven't said you've
replaced both pedals and shoes (both are frequent sources of creaks).

- Show quoted text -

Eric Lin

2007-04-22 22:48:04 UTC

Permalink

I won't say how long it took me to track down the source of the
creaking noise with my new frame but I lubed and relubed almost every
part of the bike that could cause it. It only occurred when pedaling
but turned out to be the seatpost clamp. I initially put PTFE tape
between the clamp and the seat tube but that didn't do anything. I
went back later and greased it thoroughly and it quieted down
significantly but not completely.

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